Résumés
Abstract
This study on developments in festive clothing is based on clothing and photograph collections in museums, interviews with Tunumiit (East Greenlanders) and participant observation during several months in Kalaallit Nunaata Tunua (East Greenland) in 1997, 1998 and 2001. Festive garments for special occasions did not exist in the traditional pre-Christian culture of East Greenland. In this article we investigate what influences affected the development of special clothing for festive occasions. Changes in Kalaallit Nunaata Kitaa (West Greenland) and European influences deeply affected clothing traditions in East Greenland. In the course of this process, some Tunumiit garments came to disappear and others were re-invented and re-shaped using new materials. Preparing animal skins and sewing attire always have been a women's preserve. In the past, sewing qualities were highly valued within Inuit society. Today, sewing skills and designing clothing are paid for but they still reflect women's qualities and sealskin garments shape Kalaallit identity. The development of festive clothing and the continuity in celebrating first events and rites of passage testify to the dynamics and strength of East Greenland culture. East Greenland clothing is part of a vivid cultural tradition and is still “women's magic.”
Résumé
Cette étude sur le développement des vêtements de fête se fonde sur l’analyse de collections muséographiques de vêtements et de photographies, sur des entrevues avec des Tunumiit (est-groenlandais), et sur plusieurs mois d’observation participante au Kalaallit Nunaata Tunua (Groenland oriental) en 1997, 1998 et 2001. Le vêtement de fête que l’on réserve pour une occasion spéciale n’existait pas dans la culture traditionnelle préchrétienne du Groenland oriental. Dans cet article, nous explorons ce qui a influencé le développement de vêtements spéciaux portés lors de festivités. Des changements au Kalaallit Nunaata Kitaa (Groenland occidental) et des influences européennes ont fortement affecté les traditions vestimentaires du Groenland oriental. Au cours de ce processus, certains vêtements tunumiit ont fini par disparaître alors que d’autres ont été réinventés et transformés par l’emploi de nouveaux matériaux. Préparer les peaux et coudre les vêtements ont toujours été des activités réservées aux femmes. Par le passé, la société inuit valorisait fortement la qualité des coutures. Aujourd’hui, la compétence des couturières et la conception des vêtements sont rémunérées mais ces savoir-faire reflètent encore le degré d’habileté des femmes, et les vêtements en peaux de phoque forment l’identité kalaallit. Le développement des vêtements de fête, ainsi que les premiers évènements et les rites de passage que l’on continue de célébrer, témoignent du dynamisme et de la force de la culture du Groenland oriental. Le vêtement est-groenlandais appartient à une tradition culturelle vivante et représente encore «la magie des femmes».
Parties annexes
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